July’s VanLife escape took us on our north-south loop from Detroit to Clearwater. Or more specifically, Royal Oak to Dunedin and back. We make this trip often, for the fun of it, but also to look in on the old man. Plus, all the climate and other social-political turmoil can make you want to get away and experience our great land while you can. Most everyday was ninety plus degrees and featured thunder storms (all those melting icebergs have to go somewhere.) Did a president get shot and another one drop out?
Robert Paul Russell (Bob) is 100 years old. He is always celebrated whenever he goes into local VFW #2550, in Dunedin. Check out more on Bob, the last known Army Hell Hawk of WWII.
South Bound and Trucking
With every adventure, we strive to be smarter and safer in preparation, to make it that excellent VanLife escape. Right away I realized we forgot the lawn chairs, so maybe we have to go to a packing list. Two years in with our Tellaro 20L, she had 44,444 miles with the original tires before this trip. They still look okay, but it is probably her last long trip before new ones.
Indiana Has Me, Lord I Will Go Back There
Lebanon, Indiana, is one of those delightful places of family and good times. This shows you the speed and stability of the area, northwest of Indianapolis.
Georgia State Campsites Are Always a Good Bet
After Indiana, we got down to Georgia, where we like to camp. Many of their camp sites have been significantly refreshed, new bathrooms and individual sites leveled and re-wired, landscaped etcetera. This, even when they were quite good to begin with. We stayed the first night in northwest Georgia, and the second night in the southeast down near the Florida state line. In both places, they accommodated us on drive-up basis. I guess that was our plan, to ask nicely for a spot.
First Georgia stop, Cloudland Canyon State Park, on the edge of Lookout Mountain. The scenery and terrain are superb. A popular site, where in the morning you might learn why the call it Cloudland. We love Cloudland. Their camping sites were all full. But on an extension to the honor system, they let us stay in an extra host site. We were lucky and they were great.
Next stop, Reed Bingham State Park, at Adel, Georgia, where the turf and terrain was starting to resemble Florida. Again, a well-managed, quiet, comfortable park. It seemed a hotspot for the big behemoth luxury campers. And also again, a drive-up registration.
Dunedin is No Longer a Secret, And It Still Has Its Charm
We enjoyed good times with the old man who still, to hear him tell it, needs no help. This part of the journey was quite peaceful. We heard interesting stories about his time in post-war Germany, and got to help with new raccoon friends who raided his mangos.
We had an insider tour of the town which included a trip down Victory Drive with its magnificent Victorian homes, and dinner in the revamped West End District where, at Jack Pallino’s Italian, we had great bruschetta and more.
The Northerly Rebound – VanLife Escape Back to Detroit
Whenever we go through Georgia on I75, we try to minimize the Atlanta traffic. The by-pass doesn’t make much difference that I can tell; there is no easy way through.
This time going north toward home, we planned a little better, even though it was on-the-fly. We left South Florida in the early afternoon, knowing we would be into Georgia by the time we would be ready to pull over. So, we simply stayed the first night in a Georgia rest stop south of Macon. On the north bound side of I75, there are two rest areas; one about eighty miles out and one about sixty molies out. No fuss no muss.
I already bragged about Georgia’s state parks. That Georgia frame of mind is also in evidence at rest areas, at least the big ones on the interstate. If you have boondocked, you probably experienced differing attitudes on the part of authorities regarding the use of public facilities for resting. The general approach is to be clean and quiet and respectful of others and hope for no confrontations. That is the way it goes in Georgia, even if they don’t put out a welcome sign.
Last night early, we were the only ones parked, so I wondered when we went to sleep. But when we woke up, there were several boondockers. They tolerate sleep-eye in a rest area as appropriate use of the facilities. Bravo Georgia. As it should be in the land of the free, as I think of it. But next door in Florida, they have signs posted and they are not receptive (and they are not as clean.)
VanLife Escape Over to the Smokies
As we rolled up toward Macon, we veered off of I75 onto state route 129 to the northeast. We were following a different route through Georgia for a closer look at red dirt. Then we went 441 North across the Smoky Mountain National Park. This took us through North Carolina and into Tennessee. Now this was prime VanLife escape. It was a more leisurely, less crowded ride. We saw our first sizable Trump-Vance sign; a homemade affair. This route included county roads to make connections, interesting sights and stores. For instance, wood on display always looked fresh and high quality, or even unique with slabs of old exotic planks.
We had been to the Smokies before but not as campers. Gatlinburg was a point of interest because our daughter had attended an art school there. We knew of three good sites for RVs near Gatlinburg from this website listing. (As great and well managed as the Smokies are, their camping reservation system is not nearly as good). It was short notice and the busy season, but we got in at Elkmont Camp upon arrival. The site was rustic alongside a fast-moving little river. What we failed to note until we went to set up is that Elkmont Camp is without electric and cellular. In order to get connectivity, we went a short distance to the parking lot of a visitor’s center where we could connect.
While we were there, the Smokies were catching a lot of coming-and-going rain, which put a layer of extra “smoke” on the scenic vistas. They are always magnificent and beautiful. It was special in the rainy weather, giving appreciation for why it is so lush and the ridges cut so deep. Of the touristy places, we thought the town of Cherokee, with its native Indian theme, might be the best (if we were going to try one.)
Bear warnings are all around the Smokies and need to be taken seriously. As we were driving away from the campground, a black bear camp out of the trees and angled across the road close behind our moving van. He had obviously made that move before. The bear was safe but caused a fender bender.
A Simple Savoring of Kentucky
Out of the Smokies we angled northwest towards Louisville, even getting back to I75 for a short stint. But when we got to Lexington, our boondocking fluidity took us to the northeast on state route 68 toward Cynthiana. More specifically, Blue Licks Battlefield State Resort Park. We wanted to get off the main route and experience another side of Kentucky. This was a great move; we were not disappointed!
Route 68 out of Lexington is impressive and unique. Kentucky barons of land and commerce live out here, aristocratic estates set choicely back behind endless perfect fences, often of stone. (If Mitch McConnell doesn’t have a place out here, he certainly listens to these folks.) On and on past the thoroughbred horse center and references to bourbon city. Very few vehicles on a perfect highway, without a blade of grass out of place alongside.
Eventually, the estates came less frequently, but route 68 kept up its unique character. Have a full tank of gas because there is simply nothing out here. It seems that the road and the the park might be the only public places around.
Blue Licks Battlefield State Resort Park has decent if dated facilities, with a nice family orientation. Again, we were able to get a spot on a drive-up basis.
“Licks” are a thing in Kentucky, the word making it into names and the like. Salt licks are important to nutrition and have been a draw to animals. The historic “Buffalo Trace” went right down the middle of the park, to the salt, and so did indigenous peoples. Then, as Europeans caught on and, as their presence turned more to possession and ownership, conflict escalated. Stories of Daniel Boone came from here, particularly a battle against the British in 1782. The Revolution was over but militias and fighting forces, including settlers and Indians, kept forming. The park has a small amazing museum of artifacts and relics which is recommended. It includes mastodon jaw pieces, some of which are being tested to confirm an age of fourteen thousand years; apparently mastodons liked salt too.
Upon leaving Blue Licks we continued north on Route 68, which then merged with Route AA, which curved west along the general line of the Ohio River. The scenery remained ruggedly beautiful until we reconnected with I75 at Cincinnati.
VanLife Escape Back to Home
Our VanLife escape had to come to an end, and we fast-rolled up the remaining stretch of I75. Just in time to mow the lawn, check in-out with the neighbors and kids, and prep for the next VanLife adventure.
An excellent VanLife escape requires a solid van. Our 2023 ProMaster, a Tellaro version as built out by Thor Motorcoach, did great on this trip. We had challenges early on with this van, but we and it are settling in. This trip took place in a heat wave where it was at least 90 degrees every day, and it ran great and kept us cool. She worked hard and well, up and down the Smokies, sometimes in torrential rains. These vans handle great and are always strong at their ProMaster core. There are great groups of knowledgeable enthusiasts out there, willing and able to help. Not to say anything is perfect and doesn’t require maintenance and staying on top of it – just saying. Ours was built during Covid and I think that hurt some aspects of quality, but we are getting there.
Always more VanLife escape to come. Getting ready to go. Stay safe and enjoy.
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